NEW DAYS: 10.5.–14.5.2021

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Research Event, Monday 18.5.2020


Research Event Presentations


Ruth Gilbert & Susanna Harris: Possible methods of flax yarn production


Katrin Kania: Tablet-Weaving: Weaving Complex Patterns Without Paper Drafts


Maikki Karisto: Craft and research presentation of an archaeological tablet-woven band and band in open-end braiding in 2/2 twill from the excavations in 2016 in Ravattula Ristimäki in Finland


Barbara Klessig: Advancing the Warp: Revisiting the Coppergate Textile 1336 Through an Experimental Approach


Sanna Lipkin & Mikko Finnilä: Micro-computed tomography of archaeological textiles – Benefits and limitations


Alexandra Makin: A recreation of the early medieval St Cuthbert maniple


Ulla Mannering, Eva Andersson Strand, Charlotte Rimstad & Ida Demant: Fashioning the Viking Age – the tools, textiles and costumes


Mervi Pasanen: It´s all about details – Finnish late iron age dress finishing and accessories


Jana Ratas: Spiral tube decorations on ancient clothing in Estonia and neighbouring countries on the Eastern coast of Baltic Sea


Emeline Retournard, Elsa Desplanques & Isaline Saunier: MOIRES: an association for the research on textiles in France


Ines Roth: Neolithische Textilgewebekantenherstellung


Sue Salminen: Ravattula Dress project


Jane M. Yarbrough: Using Non-Wool Fibers in Nalbinding


Research Event Posters


Anne Marie Decker: But it looks like... methods for differentiating non-woven looped structures


Maikki Karisto, Heini Kirjavainen & Jaana Riikonen: Fibres & Dyes, Bands & Seams - Preliminary results on Ravattula costume ca. 1200 AD


Barbara Klessig: Advancing the Warp: Re-visiting the Coppergate 1336 Textile


Maria Mader: What could it be? The practical test: allocating a function to a textile find


Jenni Sahramaa: Use It to Understand It - Ancient Dress in Re-enactment


Tuesday 19.5.2020


Paper Presentations


Textile life-cycles, textile consumption, Fennoscandinavian perspectives


Erika Ruhl: Re-made and Re-purposed: Exploring textile performance characteristics in pre-modern Finnish burials


Charlotte Rimstad: 17th Century Textiles from a Copenhagen Moat Fill


Anna Silwerulv, Cecilia Aneer & Fred Hocker: Textile and leather finds from the Swedish warship Vasa. A research project on common people’s clothing from the early seventeenth century


Margarita Gleba & Angela Middleton: Textiles and cordage from the 17th century English shipwreck of the London


Tuija Kirkinen: Microfibers evidence the use of skin garments in the 11th century inhumation burial 56 in Luistari cemetery, southwestern Finland

New research methods


Elsa Desplanques: European textile wrappings during the first millenium BC : proposition of study, preservation and restitution


Caroline Solazzo, Cristina Scibè & Kira Eng-Wilmot: Proteomics characterization of organic metal threads in 11th-15th century textiles


Jane Malcolm-Davies: Speed dating or slow dating: interdisciplinary analysis of knitted and other non-woven textiles

Fashioning the Viking Age


Ulla Mannering: Fashioning the Viking Age


Ida Demant & Eva Andersson Strand: Textile production and craft people in Viking Age - new analyses and results


Irene Skals: Wool for the modern Viking’s outfit.  Comparing wool from primitive sheep breeds to Viking Age textiles


Eva Andersson Strand: Fabrics for furnishing in Viking and Early Medieval Ages

Boat burials 


Annika Larsson: Silk Samite in the Viking Age female Boatgrave 36, Gamla Uppsala: a Textile Review


Karolina Pallin: Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden - different techniques, similar appearance



Welcome speech


Sanna Lipkin: Archaeological textiles from northern Finland




Georg Haggren (University of Helsinki)



Wednesday 20.5.2020


Paper Presentations


Early evidence for textile production


Johanna Banck-Burgess: Early Textile Production: Mesolithic hunter-gatherer cultures as trailblazer

Anja Probst-Böhm & Sebastian Böhm: Neolithic Textiles – Raw material and manufacturing technique – Complexity and knowledge


Clare Privilege: Textile production “lacunae”: The case study of prehistoric Ireland


Fibres and fabric production


Susanna Harris: Fabrics of the Late Bronze Age pile-dwelling settlement of Must Farm, Britain


Margarita Gleba: Textile fibres at the Bronze Age settlement of Must Farm, UK: species identification and processing


Linda Hurcombe: Nettles 6 ways:  the materiality of nettles as a fibre source


Jenni Suomela: My experiments with cross-sectioning textile fibres




Ina Vanden Berghe: In search for the mysterious red: state of the art and new insights in North European red dyes/dyeing techniques


Annemette Bruselius Scharff, Dorte V. P. Sommer & Jane Richter: New investigations of the red and brown yarns from the Danish Iron age textiles - Lønne Hede


Riina Rammo & Krista Vajanto: Searching for mastery in dyeing – blackish blue on Estonian textile finds (11th–15th c)


Amica Sundström & Maria Neijman: Medieval textile in seal bags versus archaeological textiles from Swedish cities


Experimental research


Krista Vajanto, Mervi Pasanen & Elina Sojonen: Recreation of a Finnish Medieval wool intarsia by experimental archaeology


Marie Wallenberg: Oseberg 18C, geometric patterned fragments. How have they been woven? Are there any close parallels to be found?


Chrystel Brandenburgh: The Silk Stocking-Project, using citizen science as a means to learn about 17th century knitting practices


Karina Grömer, S. V. Horne & Margarita Gleba: Textiles burning. Understanding charred textiles from cremation graves and experimental charring


Extraordinary preserving conditions


Emeline Retournard: Modern textiles, new finds: Some modern carbonised textiles from Chartres (Eure-et-Loir, France). Preliminary study


Tracy Niepold: Visible but not visualizable – challenges in analysing degraded textile remnants preserved in the so-called singer’s burial of Trossingen

Thursday 21.5.2020

Paper Presentations


Large collections, new perspectives


Ronja Lau: Hallstatt Period Textiles from Slovenian Burials


Ina Schneebauer-Meißner & Brigitte Haas-Gebhard: Early medieval textile remains from male graves of the linear cemetery in Petting (Bavaria/Germany)


Friederike Leibe: Investigation and conservation of a block-lifted archiepiscopal grave from the Magdeburg Cathedral


Milena Bravermanová, Helena Březinová & Jana Bureš Víchová: Textiles from the Tomb of St. Wenceslaus




Nina A. Pavlova: Headdresses of 15th century Moscow. Archaeological and historical evidence


Juraj Zajonc: An overview of archaeological finds of bobbin lace in Slovakia after 1997


Katrin Kania & Beatrix Nutz: Industrial use of tablet-woven bands


Local textile production and workshops and workers' clothing


Frances Pritchard: A Romano-British pile rug excavated in London


Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke: Dishing the dirt on the Roman textile and cloth refurbishing workshops in Pannonia


Antoinette Rast-Eicher: Medieval textiles and looms: Two new weaver’s workshops in Winterthur and Elgg (Canton of Zürich, Switzerland)


Beatrix Nutz: Fact and Fiction – Late 15th to 16th Century Extant Miner´s Garments vs. Pictorial Sources


Sandra Y. Comis: Excavated Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Whalers’ Clothing from Spitsbergen


Veronika Pilna: Preserved textiles from the cesspit in Plasy Monastery


Liisa Seppänen & Päivi Repo: From trash to rags and men’s fashion


Poster Session, Thursday 21.5.2020, during coffee breaks (10.00–10.45, 14.15–15.15)


Agata Ulanowska: Ariadne’s Thread Reconsidered: The Evidence for Yarns and Cordage in the Aegean Bronze Age from the Impressions on Undersides of Clay Sealings


Anne Kwaspen: The rearrangement of warp between the ground weave and tapestry ornaments of Late Antique Egyptian linen weaves


Caroline Solazzo, Elena Phipps, Maria Fusco & Petra Czerwinske: Identification of Viscacha hair in Precolumbian Peruvian Textiles with Proteomics


Celia Elliott-Minty: A braided bracelet/armband found in a Bronze Age cist on Dartmoor, UK: how might it have been made?


Clare Privilege: Spatial analysis of the archaeological evidence for textile production in prehistoric Ireland


Dolores Kearney: Weaving Stories: A multidisciplinary approach to Early Medieval Irish Textiles.


Gerusa de Alkmim Radicchi: Dyeing studies of archaeological costumes of whale and seals hunters in the South Shetland Islands (Antarctica), 19th century


Isabella Żołędziowska: Before the wool reaches the spindle – techniques of initial processing of wool and their effects on the textile


Jennifer K. Matthews, Robert Bachman, Gregory T. Clark & Christopher M. McDonough: Uncovering the story of a reproduction medieval cycle tapestry through interdisciplinary studies


Johanna Banck-Burgess, Sebastian Böhm, Anja Probst-Böhm, Ingrid Stelzner, Sebastian Million & Lisa-Marie Rösch: THEFBO- A Group Project about wetland textile from Pile Dwelling Settlements


Kelvin Wilson: A Visual Compendium of Prehistoric Fashions


Kelvin Wilson: Fashions of Fur


Mary W. Ballard, Elizabeth Simpson, Brendan Burke & G. Asher Newsome: Dyes in Ancient Phrygia: Extraordinary Evidence, Research, and Speculations


Miroslava Pechočiaková & Blanka Tomková: Possibility of differentiation of flax and hemp fibers


Monika Kaczmarek: Neolithic pottery as a source into the research about textile production - potential and limitation


Nina Manninen: Gold, silk and treasures from the Orient – Catherine Jagiellon's wardrobe in inventories 1562-1563 


Rebeka Nagy & Réka Semsey: The Robe of Saint Emeric Data related to the Prince’s cult in Pannonhalma after examining a relic


Sanna Lipkin: Bobbin laces from Ostrobothnian church burials (late 17th century – early 19th century)


Susanne Bretzel-Scheel: 40 years forgotten in the archives – The restoration and reconstruction of a priest's robe made of wool from the early 18th century


Tereza Štolcová: Picking up the threads: the latest news on the 1,600-year old tapestry from Poprad-Matejovce, Slovakia


Vanda Jakabová: The Textile Finds from the Prince Tomb II found at the site Žuráň near Brno-Podolí, Czech Republic.  Interpretation and Reconstruction of the Unique Fabric from the Migration Period

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