23–28 August 2021


This is the old program plan that will be updated as soon as all presenters have confirmed their presentations and posters. Confirmed presentations are coloured with green.

Research Event, Monday 23.8.2021


Research Event Presentations


Ruth Gilbert & Susanna Harris: Possible methods of flax yarn production


Katrin Kania: Tablet-Weaving: Weaving Complex Patterns Without Paper Drafts


Barbara Klessig: Advancing the Warp: Revisiting the Coppergate Textile 1336 Through an Experimental Approach


Sanna Lipkin, Ville Karjalainen & Mikko Finnilä: Micro-computed tomography of archaeological textiles – Benefits and limitations


Ulla Mannering, Eva Andersson Strand, Charlotte Rimstad & Ida Demant: Fashioning the Viking Age – the tools, textiles and costumes


Mervi Pasanen: It´s all about details – Finnish late iron age dress finishing and accessories


Jana Ratas: Spiral tube decorations on ancient clothing in Estonia and neighbouring countries on the Eastern coast of Baltic Sea


Emeline Retournard, Elsa Desplanques & Isaline Saunier: MOIRES: an association for the research on textiles in France


Ines Roth: Neolithische Textilgewebekantenherstellung


Sue Salminen: Ravattula Dress project


Jane M. Yarbrough: Using Non-Wool Fibers in Nalbinding


Research Event Posters


Anne Marie Decker: But it looks like... methods for differentiating non-woven looped structures


Maikki Karisto, Heini Kirjavainen & Jaana Riikonen: Fibres & Dyes, Bands & Seams - Preliminary results on Ravattula costume ca. 1200 AD


Barbara Klessig: Advancing the Warp: Re-visiting the Coppergate 1336 Textile


Maria Mader: What could it be? The practical test: allocating a function to a textile find


Jenni Sahramaa: Use It to Understand It - Ancient Dress in Re-enactment


Tuesday 24.8.2021


Paper Presentations


Textile life-cycles, textile consumption, Fennoscandinavian perspectives


Erika Ruhl: Re-made and Re-purposed: Exploring textile performance characteristics in pre-modern Finnish burials


Anna Silwerulv, Cecilia Aneer & Fred Hocker: Textile and leather finds from the Swedish warship Vasa. A research project on common people’s clothing from the early seventeenth century


Margarita Gleba & Angela Middleton: Textiles and cordage from the 17th century English shipwreck of the London

New research methods


Elsa Desplanques: European textile wrappings during the first millenium BC : proposition of study, preservation and restitution


Caroline Solazzo, Cristina Scibè & Kira Eng-Wilmot: Proteomics characterization of organic metal threads in 11th-15th century textiles


Jane Malcolm-Davies: Speed dating or slow dating: interdisciplinary analysis of knitted and other non-woven textiles

Fashioning the Viking Age


Ulla Mannering: Fashioning the Viking Age


Ida Demant & Eva Andersson Strand: Textile production and craft people in Viking Age - new analyses and results

Boat burials 


Annika Larsson: Silk Samite in the Viking Age female Boatgrave 36, Gamla Uppsala: a Textile Review


Karolina Pallin: Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden - different techniques, similar appearance


Santa Jansone & Artis Aboltins: Textiles and armour during Vendel period in Scandinavia and Baltic


Welcome speech


Sanna Lipkin: Archaeological textiles from northern Finland




Georg Haggren (University of Helsinki)



Wednesday 25.8.2021


Paper Presentations


Early evidence for textile production


Johanna Banck-Burgess: Early Textile Production: Mesolithic hunter-gatherer cultures as trailblazer

Anja Probst-Böhm & Sebastian Böhm: Neolithic Textiles – Raw material and manufacturing technique – Complexity and knowledge


Clare Privilege: Textile production “lacunae”: The case study of prehistoric Ireland


Fibres and fabric production


Susanna Harris: Fabrics of the Late Bronze Age pile-dwelling settlement of Must Farm, Britain


Margarita Gleba: Textile fibres at the Bronze Age settlement of Must Farm, UK: species identification and processing


Linda Hurcombe: Nettles 6 ways:  the materiality of nettles as a fibre source


Jenni Suomela: My experiments with cross-sectioning textile fibres




Ina Vanden Berghe: In search for the mysterious red: state of the art and new insights in North European red dyes/dyeing techniques


Annemette Bruselius Scharff, Dorte V. P. Sommer & Jane Richter: New investigations of the red and brown yarns from the Danish Iron age textiles - Lønne Hede


Riina Rammo & Krista Vajanto: Searching for mastery in dyeing – blackish blue on Estonian textile finds (11th–15th c)


Amica Sundström & Maria Neijman: Medieval textile in seal bags versus archaeological textiles from Swedish cities


Experimental research


Krista Vajanto, Mervi Pasanen & Elina Sojonen: Recreation of a Finnish Medieval wool intarsia by experimental archaeology


Marie Wallenberg: Oseberg 18C, geometric patterned fragments. How have they been woven? Are there any close parallels to be found?


Karina Grömer, S. V. Horne & Margarita Gleba: Textiles burning. Understanding charred textiles from cremation graves and experimental charring


Extraordinary preserving conditions


Emeline Retournard: Modern textiles, new finds: Some modern carbonised textiles from Chartres (Eure-et-Loir, France). Preliminary study


Tracy Niepold: Visible but not visualizable – challenges in analysing degraded textile remnants preserved in the so-called singer’s burial of Trossingen

Thursday 26.8.2021

Paper Presentations


Large collections, new perspectives

Petra Linscheid: The textile archive of H.-J. Hundt

Ronja Lau: Hallstatt Period Textiles from Slovenian Burials


Ina Schneebauer-Meißner & Brigitte Haas-Gebhard: Early medieval textile remains from male graves of the linear cemetery in Petting (Bavaria/Germany)


Friederike Leibe: Investigation and conservation of a block-lifted archiepiscopal grave from the Magdeburg Cathedral


Milena Bravermanová, Helena Březinová & Jana Bureš Víchová: Textiles from the Tomb of St. Wenceslaus




Nina A. Pavlova: Headdresses of 15th century Moscow. Archaeological and historical evidence


Juraj Zajonc: An overview of archaeological finds of bobbin lace in Slovakia after 1997


Katrin Kania & Beatrix Nutz: Industrial use of tablet-woven bands


Local textile production and workshops and workers' clothing


Frances Pritchard: A Romano-British pile rug excavated in London


Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke: Dishing the dirt on the Roman textile and cloth refurbishing workshops in Pannonia


Beatrix Nutz: Fact and Fiction – Late 15th to 16th Century Extant Miner´s Garments vs. Pictorial Sources


Sandra Y. Comis: Excavated Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Whalers’ Clothing from Spitsbergen


Veronika Pilna: Preserved textiles from the cesspit in Plasy Monastery


Liisa Seppänen & Päivi Repo: From trash to rags and men’s fashion


Poster Session, Thursday 26.8.2021, during coffee breaks (10.00–10.45, 14.15–15.15)


Agata Ulanowska: Ariadne’s Thread Reconsidered: The Evidence for Yarns and Cordage in the Aegean Bronze Age from the Impressions on Undersides of Clay Sealings


Anne Kwaspen: The rearrangement of warp between the ground weave and tapestry ornaments of Late Antique Egyptian linen weaves


Caroline Solazzo, Elena Phipps, Maria Fusco & Petra Czerwinske: Identification of Viscacha hair in Precolumbian Peruvian Textiles with Proteomics


Dolores Kearney: Weaving Stories: A multidisciplinary approach to Early Medieval Irish Textiles.


Gerusa de Alkmim Radicchi: Dyeing studies of archaeological costumes of whale and seals hunters in the South Shetland Islands (Antarctica), 19th century


Isabella Żołędziowska: Before the wool reaches the spindle – techniques of initial processing of wool and their effects on the textile


Jennifer K. Matthews, Robert Bachman, Gregory T. Clark & Christopher M. McDonough: Uncovering the story of a reproduction medieval cycle tapestry through interdisciplinary studies


Johanna Banck-Burgess, Sebastian Böhm, Anja Probst-Böhm, Ingrid Stelzner, Sebastian Million & Lisa-Marie Rösch: THEFBO- A Group Project about wetland textile from Pile Dwelling Settlements


Kelvin Wilson: A Visual Compendium of Prehistoric Fashions


Kelvin Wilson: Fashions of Fur


Mary W. Ballard, Elizabeth Simpson, Brendan Burke & G. Asher Newsome: Dyes in Ancient Phrygia: Extraordinary Evidence, Research, and Speculations


Miroslava Pechočiaková & Blanka Tomková: Possibility of differentiation of flax and hemp fibers


Monika Kaczmarek: Neolithic pottery as a source into the research about textile production - potential and limitation


Nina Manninen: Gold, silk and treasures from the Orient – Catherine Jagiellon's wardrobe in inventories 1562-1563 


Rebeka Nagy & Réka Semsey: The Robe of Saint Emeric Data related to the Prince’s cult in Pannonhalma after examining a relic


Sanna Lipkin: Bobbin laces from Ostrobothnian church burials (late 17th century – early 19th century)


Susanne Bretzel-Scheel: 40 years forgotten in the archives – The restoration and reconstruction of a priest's robe made of wool from the early 18th century


Vanda Jakabová: The Textile Finds from the Prince Tomb II found at the site Žuráň near Brno-Podolí, Czech Republic.  Interpretation and Reconstruction of the Unique Fabric from the Migration Period

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